Roof of Africa Expedition 6th Dec to 5th Jan 2011
Travelling thru Tanzania to 90k's N of Iringa 27/12/2010
Fortunately the rain circled around us so we slept well but the dawn broke with a strong chilly wind flapping the tarpaulin over our heads. Reluctantly we climbed out of our warm sleeping bags and packed up camp while breakfast was prepared. We were on the road again by 7.50 aiming for a camp site just south of Iringa. The road to Dodoma was lovely with little traffic and we made good time but needed to stop in at a bank before topping up with fuel again - banks are the same the world over with only one teller operating while half the shopkeepers of Dodoma wanted to deposit their holiday weekends takings! Attempts to find a shop with fresh bread were unsuccessful so we left town and started what we thought was a 172 km stretch of dirt road to Iringa. The road is in a terrible state so you can imagine our feelings when signs along the way confirmed that it was in fact 258 km!
We soldiered on through the afternoon and into the evening until we crossed another low bridge about 90 km from Iringa where we noticed that Ngulungundu's engine was again running warm, only to find a blown radiator hose.
The surrounding area looked so peaceful with short new grass under green trees by the dry river bed that we decided that it was a good place to set up camp for the evening and fit the replacement hose in the morning light. A quick recci found the business centre just up the road where the local headman welcomed us to stay in the guest house but we declined, preferring to have yet another beautiful night under the African sky (and our mozi nets)! Distance travelled today 436 km. Total distance to date 5303km.
90k's N of Iringa - Soa wood mills forest - Mbeya 'Peace of Mind' camp 28/12/2010
The clear sky and stunning stars ensured that we had a good nights sleep and waking up refreshed. While Chris was cooking breakfast Norm and John set about fixing the radiator hose. Fortunately Norm had brought a spare hose from Bulawayo so it was just a case of trimming it size and fitting it, which was completed before breakfast was even cooked. We were then packed up and ready to go in no time. Bidding farewell to the local headman we hit the 'road'. The 20km up a picturesque mountain pass proved that Ngulungundu's over heating problem was solved.
Just over the crest we noticed a pit-saw being used close to the road side so Norm had to test his skills much to the amusement of the labourers. Just outside Iringa Ngulungundu again decided to play temperature games sending false signals to the gauge - while filling with fuel Norm quickly fixed the broken wire from the temperature sensor. After hunting for more bread we stopped for lunch in the Soa wood mills forest and then continued along the remaining 200km to Mbeya which passed quickly. We attempted to follow directions from 'Over-Landers' but ended up 20km out of town with no sight of the camp so we decided to start again and headed back into town where Norm seemed to find his way easily to the Rift Valley Hotel. By chance, as we were turning into the hotel, we spotted a sign with the word 'campsite'. Closer examination showed that there was a camp ground was just further down the road.
While we were looking at the sign, a helpful man (Jedi) who spoke good English offered to take us to the campsite after he had shown us an alternative also close by. Having viewed both we settled for the 'Peace of Mind' camp after a warm welcome from Benson the care taker who showed us the limited space but advised us that the fee included a cooked breakfast - compared to the other which had a Mosque on one side and a bar with live band and function in progress on the other, Benson gave a good deal! We were soon setting up our stretchers and fitting them like a jig-saw puzzle into the small gazebo, but knew that we would at least be dry if it decided to rain. After a quick dinner we climbed into bed and were soon asleep. Distance for today 469km. Total distance to date 5772km.
Mbeya 'Peace of Mind' camp - Karonga, Malawi 29/12/2010
Poor Norm had to wake up early so he could catch the bus to the Tunduma border post to pick up the car registration books that we had left as surety at the border when we came into Tanzania. John and Kevin escorted him to the bus terminal and saw him safely onto a smart looking 28 seat mini bus. While this was happening the rest were still checked in at dreamland thinking about the breakfast that was to be cooked for them in the restaurant. After a morning cup of coffee we went to the restaurant with grumbling bellies. The breakfast was appetizing and a pleasant change from the usual morning dose of oats. It was just fried eggs and sausages with fresh sliced fruit, toast & jam but there was a weird fruit juice that turned out to have carrot amongst other fruit juices in it. After breakfast we tidied up our sleeping area and then went for a walk around the neighbourhood to look at the shops and meet with Jedi who had promised to bring a selection of old coins from home to his Tribal Arts & Tours shop.
We then returned to the campsite and rested while expecting a call from Norm, which soon came informing us that he was on his way back. We then packed up camp as it was still early enough to continue on our journey. We were just finishing the packing when Norm came around the corner looking hungry, tired and a little shaken. He then enjoyed the breakfast/lunch that he missed earlier and told us his stories about the bus rides that he had taken - the most amusing was about how all the standing passengers crouched down to look as if they were sitting on proper seat each time the bus approached a police road block! We then set off for the border in search of a campsite on the other side. We were soon at the border and pleased when we discovered that there was almost no one there.
Although a different story on the Malawi side there were a lot more people. It also took some time because Norm and John wanted to make sure that they had all the papers so as to not be caught out at road blocks. We were then off and heading for Livingstonia but ended up arriving at Karonga in the dark so we decided to find a campsite and spend the night there. After a short hunt we found a quiet camp site named Mufwa Lakeshore Campsite. On the other side of Lake Malawi there was a storm so every one but Norm, Chris and Brenden set up there tents under the plentiful Mango trees so that they would remain dry. After dinner and a much desired shower we helped the others set up the tarpaulin and we then squashed up inside our tents. Distance travelled today 174km. Total distance to date 5946km.
Karonga, Malawi - Livingstonia 30/12/2010
At about one o'clock a strong wind blew up with lightening and thunder threatening to pelt us with rain. Ripe mangoes could be heard falling all around - imagine when a mango lands on your tent in the middle of the night! Despite all the bluster, rain turned out to be just a light drizzle - just enough to wet the tents. When the tent dwellers got out of there tents they found breakfast being prepared by Chris and coffee by Brenden. We then inspected the entire floor for mangos that had fallen during the night for any edible ones. Just then a care taker came, dashed up the tree, shook it and almost knocked everyone out with delicious mangos. The boys were thoroughly pleased with all the fruit and tucked in on the spot.
We then departed and went to the grocery store to get some extra supplies then headed off in the direction of Livingstonia. We were soon at the turn off but were informed by a police man at a close-by road block that the direct road was closed but that there was another longer way around. After a while we began to ask the locals to make sure we were taking the correct route. One lady told us that Livingstonia was about 20km away. Just as we got a few kilometers down the dust road Chris spotted a soft tyre that we had pumped up in the morning so we stopped and as luck would have it, found that the little pole -and-dagga hut beside the road was a small shop that happened to have coke and some chips which were all gone in seconds flat. Well it sure was not 20km - we kept going up and down and the road kept on going, we were being hurled around inside the car by the terrible road and an hour and a half later we arrived and got the news that it was in fact 50km along the alternative road instead of the 15km direct road. The first thing that we visited in this little village was the church with a beautiful stained glass window.
We read the many memorial plaques and then climbed to the top of the bell tower along the questionable stair case and low ceilings; you suddenly realize why the Hunchback of Notre Dame was hunch backed. Realizing that we hadn't eaten all day and it was now 15.00, we spoke to the chef who rustled up some food for us while we took a tour around the small Stone-House Museum. In the museum there was an unnamed object which after deliberation Norm summed it up to be a piece of an old electric meter. We then had tea and a much required lunch. Because of the distance that we still had to go and the time of day Norm decided that we were going to spend the night outside the Museum in the camp grounds. Having a few hours of day light available, the boys fished out the bat and ball that Rob and Sarah had given them at Mwanza and started playing cricket. Soon the numerous young local bystanders gathered and joined the boys in their game.
All hopes of cricket were soon abandoned as the ball was being thrown in any direction. While the boys were busy Norm was putting longer shackle plates on the left rear spring of Nguluvane to overcome the slight spring sag while John stripped the invertor from Ngulungundu which was filled with dust and had stopped working earlier in the day. It was as if all the children of the village had come to join the boys in the game, but were later called back home as dusk fell. Tents were set up as dinner was being prepared on the balcony of Stone House, as there were clouds and thunder approaching over the lake. By 20.40 the rain was pelting down and we (along with another tourist couple) had abandoned the balcony and settled in the lounge, waiting for the rain to stop. By about 22.00 we were able to return to the balcony but some of the tents were drenched inside and out by the rain and strong winds that had found their way in open blinds etc. So all but Mike and Declan (who were brave enough to sleep in a tent) set up stretchers on the balcony of the historic Stone House and went to sleep, only to be woken again by another short but heavy shower at 04.30! Distance for the day 193km. Distance travelled to date 6139km.
Livingstonia, Malawi - Kande beach 31/12/2010
Reluctantly, we dragged ourselves out of our sleeping bags shortly after 6.00 to rescue our wet tents etc. and start packing ready for the return trip along the terrible road which would obviously be worse after the rain. We said good-bye to the curator who arrived in gum boots as if expecting floods. We then paid a visit to the cemetery and had a walk around between graves - the oldest grave found was that of a 13 month old baby dated 1897. We then visited Manchewe water falls close by. Despite the recent rain the falls were very narrow but the water falls along way down, estimated more than 200m, with a very clear rainbow near the bottom.
We then started down the bumpy slippery road. At one particular place in the road Norm was in front and almost tipped the car in a huge puddle that was very deep the car behind was amazed as Norm just kept putting foot and amazingly ended up on the other side. John decided to take Ngulungundu around the side rather than through the frightening puddle. The rest of the down hill was filled with unintentional drifts around corners and water being splashed all over the place utterly amusing the boys. The drivers on the other hand, breathed a sigh of relief when they reached the tar road and took the cars out of 4 wheel drive. We then headed for Kande beach where we intended to spend New Years Eve. After another concoction of canned noodles on bread at the side of the road and a quick Coke while refueling the vehicles, we pressed on, determined to reach Kande beach where we hoped we would be among other tourists for the festive evening.
Along the road we stopped on a side road in a rubber tree plantation to see how latex is drawn and collected from the trees. Touching the latex we quickly realized that it smelt terrible. Norm had already warned us of vendors who steal the latex and stretch it to long strands before making a big ball to sell to tourists, so obviously we were inundated by children trying to sell us balls of varying sizes.
Later we found the turn off and drove through kraals along a beach sand road and finally arrived at a security gate to the private beach. We signed in and drove around the driveway hunting for a campsite - almost all were taken by Over Landers and a variety of other tourists with touring vehicles of all descriptions. After claiming our site we all went to the beach for a swim in the warm water and played some cricket. When every one was out of energy they gathered around to set a tarpaulin and make some tea. We then went to the nearby restaurant for a pleasant dinner and chat. After dinner the boys went to the beach and tackled each other on the sand for a while and came back hot, sweaty and covered in sand.
They went for a shower but still had sand in there hair so the longer haired boys looked like well used brooms. As the evening wore on the crowd seemed to increase as did the loud music, but Chris and Norm were so tired that they went to bed while others went and sat on the beach and waited for midnight. After wishing everyone Happy New Year and watching the fire works being set off randomly, we retreated to our stretchers. The unfortunate thing was that a small group with a sub woofer and mixer had gathered and were playing their music in the middle of the car park. This continued until about 4.00 when another tourist had had enough and turned off the electrical mains switch for a few seconds. Shortly afterwards they resumed with their noise so he then approached them and complained so they moved their equipment to the bar area further away. Needless to say we did not get much sleep either way! Distance travelled for the day 529km. Total distance to date 6668km.
Kande Beach - Neil Garden Cottage, lakeside, Salima 1/1/2011
Amazingly and fortunately we were all up at half six but felt like zombies. Threatening clouds and thunder in the distance got us to pack up fast and just as we had just finished packing it began to pour down with accompanying lightening and thunder. We quickly finished our breakfast under a small shelter while other tourists scrambled around rescuing their belongings. Our little shelter soon sprung a few leaks under the deluge and at the same time the water in the car park became a river heading for our shelter so Norm quickly made a wall with some loose sand while the rest were trying to make another wall to keep the water out. We had to wait for the office to open at 7.00 by which time the shower had passed, so as soon as payment had been finalised we jumped into the vehicles and set off for Neil Garden's Cottage on a private beach near Salima which had been reserved for us.
Driving back to the main road was another slippery experience after the downpour - the beach sand had turned to slush in a few places, but 4 wheel drive saved the day again. We stopped briefly to get bread, chocolates and a few other necessities and were soon on our way. We arrived at Salima in good time and then followed the detailed directions to the cottage, only taking one wrong turn along the way. We were greeted by Bobo the caretaker who advised us that the cottage had already been let out, so we just set up camp in the garden and were soon swimming again in the lake while another tourist sped up and down taking his family for rides on a jet ski. Chris managed to buy two fish from a fisherman on the beach, which Bobo then braaied superbly for our supper. An early night was called for to catch up on the lost hours of sleep the previous night. Distance travelled today 280km. Total distance to date 6948km.
Lakeside, Salima - Lilongwe - Zambian Border - towards Kariba 2/1/2011
We woke with the sun in our faces over the Lake and after breakfast packing up camp went for another swim as we had decided to keep moving towards home. The water was lovely and cool although it was still slightly murky due to rivers feeding silt in after recent rains. We then left and only managed to get a few meters down the road before a pair of Norms shorts dropped off the roof of Nguluvane. We had also forgotten to tie down the water barrels on the roof of Ngulungundu, so after a few minutes we were back on the road heading for Lilongwe and then onto the Zambian Border. No time was wasted - stopping only for fuel and refreshments, using up our last Malawian Kwacha. Fortunately the border was not busy and we were through without delay.
Our plan was to get as far as possible so that Kariba would be achievable tomorrow (Monday) so we pressed on looking for a convenient place for a short lunch break. Finally at about 16.30 we saw a suitable spot, but soon after stopping and getting out the bread, cheese etc, the clouds that had been building behind us arrived and threatened to open on us. The food was quickly divided between the vehicles as we hurriedly piled back in and set off eating on the run. The storm seemed to follow just behind us for the next hour as we watched the wind blowing and people scurrying for cover each time we passed through a kraal or business centre. At 17.30 we came across 'Zulu Kraal' camp site some 50km east of Sinda and after discussing arrangements with the caretaker we set up our tents, unloaded the back of the vehicles and got coffee on the go. Because of the late lunch not all were feeling too hungry so we enjoyed a light dinner of pancakes and jam and a final cup of coffee. We then collapsed into bed for an early night with lightening on the horizon. Distance today 449km.Total distance to date 7397km.
Thanks to John for this past weeks diary and Mario for emailing it in from Chinhoyi Caves.
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View the large photos from The Roof Of Africa Expetition on the website at:-
http://matabele.altervista.org/troops/1st-kilimanjaro/index.htm
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This past Week...
Warm holiday greetings from New Zealand, congratulations on making the top, and a safe journey home. Have so much enjoyed the daily diary and the adventures shared. Fantastic stuff. Holiday of a lifetime. Pat on the back and best wishes to all.
Cheers
Rose Winquist (ex Kumuka Oct. 2010)
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1st Bulawayo (Pioneer) Scout Troop Founded 1909
The 2010 Troop's fundraising Calendar can be found at:-
http://matabele.altervista.org/1st-calendar/1st-pioneer-troop-calendar-2011.htm
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If youre planning to visit Zimbabwe - pencil in "Gordon Park's 75th Anniversary Camp" thats being planned for the 18th to 20th February 2011!
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"A Thought For The Week"
Opportunity is missed by most people because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work. --Thomas Edison (from Andrew Barker’s Facebook)
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Matabeleland Scout Website /
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Bulawayo, 4th Jan 2011
